Into The Andes ► Episod #4 - Boulder au Cajon del Maipo

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850m of multipitch ! Dibona and its surroundings

August 8, 2016

After resting in a torrential summer rain, we left again the next day for the 3 hours of approaching the Dibona with Carlito, Ivana, Florencia and Pyd. Manu left to join the world of work and Cédric, not wanting to repeat the tedious march, left to climb to Chamonix, the next destination of the trip.

Ivana discovering the spire of the Dibona

 

The first plan of this expedition is to climb a summit near the Dibona: "L'aiguille du Plat de la Selle" by the newly equipped route, called "Les Sources du Silence" ("The Sources of Silence"). No less than 32 lengths that allow access to this summit ... or 850m of climbing at a level that varies from 5 to 6b +. To do this in a day, the strategy is to go up in "simultaneous". That is to climb simultaneously once the rope between the partners is "stretched". This makes it possible to chain several lengths without having to stop at all the relays and thus save time. The principle is that if the first one falls, the second one will automatically retain it. The disadvantage is that if the second one falls off then it implies the first fall ... Therefore you should be vigilant enough to avoid unscrewing.

 

The itinerary of tomorrow :

We spent a good night in a store near the Soreiller shelter, and it is therefore early (8h) that we commit ourselves to conquer the "plat de la Selle" needle. An hour later and we are at the foot of this immense building. We formed two cordadas, Ivana and Pyd, Florence and Carl, each with 28 quickdraws ... efficient number to be able to join a maximum of lengths of one.

Ivana in L11 ... it's 11:11...only 21 pitches left !!

 

The rythm of the climbing is good ... then rest at noon in L16

Florence & Carl in L19... 12h45

 

Ivana and Florence at the "peak of the diamond" since we have to do a rappel to follow L23 ... 13h40

"Kife the Life" with height! L29 ... 15h

 

Pitch  n° 32... last sprint to the summit (15h45)

 

On the summit !

 

We did not climb today but we ran! We ran vertically over 850m of this fantastic colored granite, and it is at 4pm that we reach the top of this monument to the indescribable view (we must go there to know ;-)) and that it ends at 3596m. 32 long according to the topo, but with our technique of "asemble" we managed to make the way in only 10 lengths !!! We even folded a rope in L31 that had left at 8 a.m. this morning but had started the track from the long L16 and not practicing the "technique". Knowing that we attacked the climb at 9 in the morning, it took us 7 hours to complete this race thanks to the impeccable conditions of the day, both climatic and physical.

 

We enjoyed the view and the altitude of the summit for more than an hour before starting the descent. Composed of a unique rappel and a very unstable stones course and the road that leads to this mountain is very exposed, requires the mountaineer foot to not be intimidated by the presence of vacuum. But the satisfaction of the day and the adrenaline generated allows to maintain the necessary concentration to reach the "floor of the cows".

 Carl during the descent

 

A snack later ... we decided our plans the next day. Carl and Ivana have never been at the top of the needle of the "Dibona", will evolve together via the "VO": "Compulsory Visit". Pyd and Florence decide to raise the "Rouget" needle by ... "VO": "Original version". The basic condition is ... sleep late! To rest a bit from the events of the previous day, and then knowing that we have "only" 300m to climb, you can well grant it.

 

10:30 am Perfect time to leave the tent and launch an assault on a large breakfast on the terrace that allows you to appreciate the daily spectacle of the tails of cordadas on the "Visite Obligatoire" of the Dibona ... Some cordadas even come out before the sun, style 6h30! Not for us! Today we start wisely around 1pm to walk. A great day for the two cordadas ... a success!

 

Click here to see the 360 ° view of the Rouget summit

We enjoy a pleasant night in the shelter of Soreiller and the morning sun to soften our body and then we will return quietly in the afternoon to the small village "Les Etages" where our trucks wait. Because the time came to head towards another destination beacon of this trip:

 

CHAMONIX ... here we are !

 

 

 

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Into The Andes ► Episod #4 - Boulder au Cajon del Maipo

Into The Andes ► Episod #3 - Torrecillas

Into The Andes ► Episod #2 - Alfalfal

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