We left the extreme heat of the Verdon region to address the "Ecrins" to satisfy our thirst for Summit! But before that, to finish the warming up of this EuRoP Summer Rock Trip, we make a stop on the way to the dazzling cliff of "Céüse".
The board of the caravan is put in the grove of "Céüsette". For this occasion of destination we are many have come, we have Cedric, Ivana, Pyd, Florence, Manu, Antoine and Alex ... almost all wounded with their respective truck what begins to form a good comfortable convoy (but unfortunately not very ecological) .
We study the attack strategies of this cliff in view of the prevailing canicular conditions ... "we are still not enough in Altitude" ... and it is with a unanimous departure between the early risers and ... the others that we draw the time exit of the walk (torture) approach about 1 pm to wait for the shadow on the face of the east:
A few days are enough to declare that at this time of year: "Céüse ... is exhausting!" . And it is to remedy this that we finally decided to go to the assault of the needles on the way to the north to get a little more height ... and especially the "freshness"!
Go to : "Les Tenailles de Montbrison"
To get there we take a quite sporty road but that takes us to a splendid clearing crossed by a river where we can park our mines:
We spent a good night in spite of the invasion of flies in the trucks and it is for a mixture of the vie "An infinite patience" and "L'éperon Renaud" that we chose to climb these famous pinzas ("tenailles"). We need 1h30 of walk to get to the foot of this needle and start your ascent.
Here we have a good atmosphere :
First spire from which we had to go down to continue
Little Moment of panic at the sight of this disturbance in the approach ...
Florence in the last pitch
The rain went away ... we took advantage of warming ourselves to the sun that went to the summit
Due to a changing climate and thanks to the relay installed in the large blocks, we take advantage of a stop to warm up the body (but also the good 4g connection to answer the messages). The descent is very appreciable because it is a single rappel to reach the ground, the continuation of the descent is done walking ... even skiing in the acareos. We return to our clearing to quench our thirst for beer and satisfy our belly. The plans evolve and the idea of staying here for several days is fading to give way to the desire to enjoy the window of good weather in the Dibona ... Epic stage expected from the trip! Especially for Manu who does not have many vacation days. We liberated the divine clear the following day to begin the road towards the vertiginous valleys of "Oisans".
Two purchases on the way to refuel, a dive in the icy waters of the "Veneon" to cool off and arrival in the parking lot of "Étages", a small town with very impressive access roads, so much so that they are narrow and exposed to the precipice. For once we get up early! The temperature has been reduced, but especially the time of the alarm ... 8am and already in the attack of the approach walk that represents 3h ~ 3h30 depending on the load carried.
Dibona on sight
2 liters of sweat later, we arrive at the Soreiller shelter around 11 am where its 2700m altitude makes the temperature quite pleasant under this sun of lead. Just a swallowed sandwich and mate that we entered the walls of the needle divided into 2 cordadas, Cedric and Florencia, Manu and Pyd. One in the "Via Madier (trad) and the other in" Mandatory visit ", 400m to climb before night, is that they are 12 long 30m ...
Manu quiet second
Florence and the Soreiller refuge below
Simultaneous arrival of the 2 cordadas to the summit
>> Click to see the ~360° of the summit <<
The lines are magnificent and aerial ... This gentle dream of reaching the top of the little needle that went very far this morning, propels us to the top and becomes reality around 6 pm. The time to scream some songs to the neighboring mountains and down relaxed in a single rappel that takes us to the start of the march back. In other words, it is easier to handle the stress of rappel (and its famous strings of strings according to the fate of the day). And we confessed that the descent in the sled-ass was very playful!
A good hour's walk back and enjoy a deserved appetizer upon arrival at the refuge. We try not to exaggerate our joy of this busy day, because the clients-climbers are already sleeping at the moment when, we just started to make food (as always). The projects are being discussed because the weather seems rainy for tomorrow, an unmistakable choice for Pyd and Manu: "rest!" but an idea to climb the eastern needle of the Soreiller stimulate Cedric and Florence.
In the morning, doubt still reigns because of the motivated rope ... The other team makes the most of ranching the banks outside the shelter, drinking mate, eating and laughing. Cedric and Florence are motivated when the morning clouds vanish and embark on "Voyage pour l'Orient", a 400-meter race that leads to the summit of the Soreiller's eastern spire. Unfortunately the disturbances return and they are irrigated as soon as they reach the second relay ... forcing the rope to reverse.
There will be no weather improvements in perspective for the next few days, according to the information of our kind Martine, guardian of the refuge, who decides to reflect on the continuation of our ascension plans ... Ivana, who was in Italy for a week, has Planned to join us to discover this unmissable place. She must arrive the next day but she does not know anything about the weather situation. But we do not want to wait in the rain! That's why in the afternoon, we left the camp and returned to our beloved rolling palaces, planning to return after the rain ......
...Next of the session Dibona to the next chapter ...