"Here is a place we can be proud to have in France: " Les Gorges du Verdon "! What a pleasure to re-re-discover this unique corner of the world and share it with foreign friends.You can not get tired of its beautiful lakes, its rivers, its vertiginous walls, its greenery, its bars, its pizzas, its warm atmosphere and the freedom that prevails in the area of putting ourselves on either side with our trucks in beautiful places of nature, of which we are very careful "to avoid damage or mess, of course "(dedications to the flaites of tourists who throw everything everywhere)"
Leaving Cabo Canaille (near Marseille) we enjoyed spending a few days in a simply amazing place: "L'étoile Noire (The Black Star)". Surprising and delicate multicolored sandstone paths that give the impression that has been carved by laser shot ...
Ivy in the crazy ramping crack / 6c
After an abrasion, advance the knee and the tips of the shoes, restart the convoy and take the direction of the throats (de verdon: D). As we are not in a hurry and want to enjoy a day of rest, we decided to make a stop by "the Sillans waterfall" that is on our route. After a short night under the trees of a path, we get to the waterfall and it turns out that our choice was relevant because the surprise is in our expectations when we approach the turquoise waters ...
A beautiful corner of paradise hidden in the forest
What an ideal refreshment on this hot day!
He finds himself training ... Arbulder !!!
A nap at the foot of this paradise and we escape to the arrival of a large cloud that makes us shade. It was by chance that we reached our palace just before falling a summer flood ... quite unexpected. A good reason to leave and join our meeting place in the Verdon where friends are waiting for us to share a good barbecue by the lake of "Sainte-Croix".
Tomorrow's plan will be magnificent with another 6 that accompany us! We will rent a pedal boat, inflate a camping mattress 2 places and thus tow it with the pedal to enter the lair of the Gorges of the Verdon, in front of the lake of Ste Croix and climb freely above the water (commonly called " Psychobloc "). An atypical and pleasant day that will take us well empowered arms !!! Perfect for multi-dollar plans for the next day;)
After another roast in a more closed place in the Verdon near "la Palud", 4 cordadas are formed! A team that contains our international mascot: the Anthonin child: "Theo" who is 8 years old! Accompanied by Julie, it will be the multi-layered "Herbétau" to initiate Theo into the vertiginous atmosphere of the Verdon. For three other teams the choice is unanimous: "We want to go up in the shade". So what better than to assault the wall of the "Duc", a cliff of 300 meters under shade until reasonable hours in the afternoon (be careful with the stragglers because the sun beat them!).
The breakdown of teams on the cliff is balanced in both difficulty levels and spatially. Cedric and Christelle in the classic "Série Limité" (7a max), Romain and Carlito in the hard "Alix" (7b max) and Ivana and Pyd in the nice "Valse pour Manon" (6b max). Both say that the atmosphere is at its peak! The incredible resonance in these throats is ideal to scream like us to practice crazy songs! The joy of simply expressing our simultaneous presence in this delirious face and the pleasure of the climb it gives us.
Rewarded with good beers well refreshed throughout the day by the Verdon (this is also the name of the river), we take a walk on the small beach admiring the laggards cooking on the wall after the sun's appearance ... Then the moment arrives to take a good shower in the translucent ice water to untangle the first layer of sweat matted during the ascent before reaching the base camp and eat well to be ready tomorrow to go to the sports sector called "HULK", a paradise exiled to half approach time the most original. Promising adventure with the little Theo ... Tyrolean, old cordatas and old scales to pass to get to the famous Hulk cave.
(Top left Theo pet / right Ivana pegging the "Raja de Hulk" 7b)
Very good day to drain the muscles in the columns and the plaster that covers the area that will have allowed us to try harder routes than usual multilargos. Time to do the farewell with the team arrived on the weekend and prepare the project tomorrow:
A classic high of the Verdon, the Ula is a mythical fissure dividing the wall of the "Escales". The problem is that it faces the southeast and the current sun would give it one after 2 long
It is studied, investigated and we find the trick: Go there in the afternoon because the face passes in the shade the 14. That suits the sleepers, but that they limit the time. We decided to follow the advice we heard and not the whole route, but from the third leg, which significantly reduces the logistics because accessible by rappels, unlike if you want to do the integral where you have to leave from the parking lot "Samson" and hitch to get back to the car ...
At the arrival of the reminders, a sign: "No bolt" ... that becomes interesting!A l'arrivée des rappels, un panneau : "No bolt" ... voilà qui devient intéressant !
Honor to Ivana to start in the "crack" of the "Ula"
Smile in the crux of the way in 6b teasing
The time is perfect and we arrived at sunset to enjoy the deliciously cooled beer this time because the truck remained in the sun all day. Yaaaa, the time came to offer us a day of rest !! We go through the entrance of the gorges to return to our place at the edge of the water and find tranquility and physical inactivity ... swimming, sunbathing, playing petanque, and good food ... that is the key to the success of a good day of rest.
Ivana a little skeptical about our version of "aquatic" petanque
ow we are rested and not to retrace our steps we decided to go around the gorges passing through the south side and thus reach "l'auberge des Cavaliers" which dominates in these places. A good choice to climb the north face and take advantage of the necessary shade since the heat is oppressive.
Beautiful lines are available as options and it is in "La Traversée des Cavaliers" that we launch into the verdonesque emptiness followed by the beautiful courtyard of "tandem pour une évidence" rich in every style of climbing (plate, fissures, dihedrals, traverses, collapses ... .). What fun for the next days.
Cedric at the beginning of the crossing Calaliers ... good gas and technical steps ... what move!
When the steps are hairy, nothing beats a good saving tree
Small dedication to the magazine "Climb" special Verdon
Variant output in 7a +, recalcitrant
Victory for the team coming out exhausted just in time under raindrops
Ivana in the crossing in 6c + "Tandem for an evidence"
9 pitches homogeneous and exhausting to get a 100% of KTL
Again a lot of positive emotions on this trip around the "Cavaliers" ... we would have liked to stay longer, but friends have planned to join us on the other side of the throat ... Let's go with the convoy to gather around of beautiful roasted pork ribs with mustard and the famous peppers with goat cheese and cinnamon that will unanimously make a general culinary orgasm. Perfect banquet to recharge and face the wall of the "Dérobée" the day after. The verdonesque environment is at its peak in this part of the throat. The river below, the cliffs on the left bank just opposite and the emptiness you have to direct at the beginning of the day for the vertiginous rappels to reach the foot of the tracks. 2 cordadas formed ... one for "In Memoriam" (6c) and the other in "Pour quelques gros lards de plus" (7b)
The boasters next door brag to attack the key length of "For a handful of fat big bats more"
Big, big atmosphere from "In Memoriam"
Ivy in da crux of "in Memoriam"
And we can blow now!
Little surprise on arrival to see Carl's way of belaying
The rabids shout their victory over this mythical wall
How to say ... We have taken full advantage of our coming. Pure KTL ("Kiffe ta Life") and it is after a joint decision that we decided to go for some Trad via (traditional climbing without pythons) in a sector full of exceptional cracks that look delicious. That place is:
See you soon for new adventures