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3.Cap Canaille> Entre Cielo y Mar ... Una Muralla naranja 5 *

July 2, 2016


We are at the precipice of our imagination and our emotions ... The cliffs of "Cap Canaille"! This rocky and red ridge gives a slight sensation of vertigo for those who dare approach. Here one puts on their climbing shoes before doing the first rappel down to the start of the climbs.

Approach Rappel 

Instead of a long burly approach, these climbs are easily accessed by a car ride along the lookouts of "the route of the ridges". The approach is almost non-existent. It takes about fifteen minutes to reach the access rappels if you don’t get lost in the wild boar paths. We stumbled down several bush boar trails and ended up stretched up. Only few climbs in the area require more than 3 rappels.



Overhung and juggy 5c / 6a(5.9+/5.10a) in the "Grand Draïoun" sector

This incredible climbing area is composed of 3 types of rock : limestone, sandstone and conglomerate on the end. The climbs are usually about two pitches and come in every style. Here one can enjoy dihedrals, cracks, technical faces, juggy overhangs, and a great sense of exposure. The easy access to varied routes, especially the steep overhands, the diversity of colors and the amazing views at each belay are what make Cap Canaille truly spectacular.

And the heat in the summer?
Contrary to what one might the think, climbing in Cap Canaille in the summer is not a free ticket to the sauna. Nor is climbing here a sure way to blow out a shoe at the end of every pitch. To truly enjoy the climbing, one must be strategic and move with the shade. Due to the large amount of overhanging rock the sun doesn’t come out until about 1pm on most of the routes and routes on the east side stay shaded until 3pm. Stick to the shade or your heading for a bad time. Luck was good to us and we avoided any burns.

Cédric and Manu get some sun on "Poids du Papillon"


 Cédric and Florence on the attack on the route "Grazie Amico"


 Ivana and PYD on the fabulous "Galet jade"

Ivy on de pudding (7a+) Always smiling!


Arrival of the dirtbags on the viewpoint


Slow in morning, no rush in the evening

The hard part is getting up early for night lovers like us. It is true that the game of "Pétanque" (French game of fierce balls) of the night ends when you can no longer find your balls because of the low light that there is and the gourmet kitchen that we impose steals our time. But all this with the aim of showing our foreign friends the qualities of French cuisine. It is made pope that we left the multilargos of Cap Canaille but we but we allowed some afternoons of siesta to the beach ... And if a little juice remains to one, it can be ended by a session of psychobloc in the "Hole of the Devil "in the creek of Figuerolles.

This session Canaille will remain in the memories as much for the emotions as for the culinary quality as for the pleasure of the climb and because it laughs a lot in our games of petanque "sportsman". Always and forever for me personally: one of the best places in the world!


We ended the last night with another group of people traveling with Van to come to see at sunset at the stoplight of the cape and to celebrate the birthday of a friend, where we are very kindly invited and with whom we share jokes, champagne and a magical sunset over A sea of clouds:

The summer sun did not stop us from enjoying that somptuous place but the heat encourages us to go to our next destination in search of fresh air and new challenges.




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Escalader avec une caméra 360 : Into The Andes ► Episod #5

Into The Andes ► Episod #4 - Boulder au Cajon del Maipo

Into The Andes ► Episod #3 - Torrecillas

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